There's no Home Depot or Lowe's near you? I walked into a Home Depot and walked out with a handful of free paint mixing sticks. Hard not to look shifty-eyed as you just grab a bunch and walk out, but they ARE free after all :) They're certainly not hardwood or anything, but good enough for the crap little robots I make :)
I took some of the paint sticks from home depot, and i was freakin out thinking some security guy would come up behind me and just stare me down *shivers*
Nice start. It's amazing how much quicker a project goes when you use hot glue instead of worrying about removable connections like bolts and brackets, huh? :)
Hot glue all the way! To make soldering easier on yourself, buy a good soldering station. Nothing radioshack sells will do the job right. Spend $90-120 on either a weller or a hakko. My weller broke. I now own a hakko. The hakko has not broken :-D It heats up in less than 15 seconds which is quite useful.
Good luck, and our robots shall drum to the death someday.
haha... k thanks mate... i never expected to spend so much on a soldering iron... ill look it up tanks!
although I dont think im willing to spend so much on a soldering iron when im not gonna solder much... i bought 100+ female jumpers + 50+ f/m jumpers... I just need to solder header pins on and im good to go!
I got a cold heat soldering iron for $20. It works well IF you understand how it works. The end doesn't heat up. It just electrecutes the wire to heat it up so the solder will melt. I'm sure people here hate it but I like it ;)
Hey man, whatever works. I'd rather be making those removeable connections that you are than soldering. That would definitely solve some of my problems.
I'm still working out which connectors I should use in hobby (haven't bought a crimp tool yet). Yeah, I think your solution is best for this. I do some heavy soldering and surface mount work :-p
1. What output did you use for the playback of your Recording Board? 2. Same but what output for the record button? 3. For the Recording board, does it matter which V&G I connect to on the Picaxe? 4. For the spare L293D for the GM10s, you used four GM10s, all with one L293D, which GM10 did you use for which port on the 2nd L293D
5. And finally, which output/V&G did you use for the spare L293D
Your motor controller needs a capacitor. I used two IIRC. About 10uF should do it, but I'd rather go in the hundreds range to be safe.
Otherwise, it is rather straightforward. Have a look at the datasheet, as I forget how the chip is wired now. Learning about H bridges is essential. I built an h bridge that would take ... up to around 600 volts (I've tested to 200) and switch over 3 amps at 200kHz.
Thats some heavy-duty stuff man. Definitely worth learning about.
Are you positive a capaciter is needed? The other three people who have built a drum machine, and used an L293D/other motor controller, have not used a capaciter, actually the only miscellaneous electronic was a resistor, and even so was proably very little ohms
with my stick controller I found it helpful to wire up the chip on my breadboard first. One thing you should check is to make sure you connect all the grounds together, and make sure the ground from the L293 is connected to the one from your MCU. I still dont know why that is needed, somebody tried to explain it to me but I didnt really understand. However it makes all the difference. Also I dunno how essential this is, but I used a 47k pullup resistor on the enable pins, basically I connected them together thus:
enable1/2 -> enable3/4 -> 47k -> 5vcc
that was the setup that worked for me pretty much...
No I get what connections go to where, but according to the L293D datasheet, I must connect all (4) grounds, to four G pins on the MCU, and the same for the Voltage, as well as output (each of them have four)? Do I only need one for each?
Thats Cool
Thats cool great job with chase. Cant wait to see it beat some thing up and make musice out of it!
Brilliant someone else is
Brilliant someone else is having a go too :D good luck
Law Three, a robot must protect its own existence as long as such protection does not conflict with the First or Second Laws.
No free sticks in the big
Nope, hella expensive too, I
There's no Home Depot or
There's no Home Depot or Lowe's near you? I walked into a Home Depot and walked out with a handful of free paint mixing sticks. Hard not to look shifty-eyed as you just grab a bunch and walk out, but they ARE free after all :) They're certainly not hardwood or anything, but good enough for the crap little robots I make :)
Dan
The ones you get in Denmark
The ones you get in Denmark is actually hardwood. I always wondered why, but it is really good quality.
PS: Just say that you got some paint yesterday, and forgot the sticks ;)
Malti lives in NYC...
Malti lives in NYC...
Google shows one Lowe's store in Brooklyn though.
I took some of the paint
Black 6mm HDPE sheeting
Black 6mm HDPE sheeting 500*500mm - http://www.directplasticsonline.co.uk/home.php?cat=4022
Bargain.
Law Three, a robot must protect its own existence as long as such protection does not conflict with the First or Second Laws.
not at all... try
Wow, just saw; Hot glue ON
It seems to be more adhesive
Yeah. Add some nails too :D
Yay I just ordered the two
Nice start. It's amazing how
Nice start. It's amazing how much quicker a project goes when you use hot glue instead of worrying about removable connections like bolts and brackets, huh? :)
Dan
Its much faster and is
"I am going to get my
yerp... i cant
YDM loves hot glue
Hot glue all the way! To make soldering easier on yourself, buy a good soldering station. Nothing radioshack sells will do the job right. Spend $90-120 on either a weller or a hakko. My weller broke. I now own a hakko. The hakko has not broken :-D It heats up in less than 15 seconds which is quite useful.
Good luck, and our robots shall drum to the death someday.
haha... k thanks mate... i
although I dont think im willing to spend so much on a soldering iron when im not gonna solder much... i bought 100+ female jumpers + 50+ f/m jumpers... I just need to solder header pins on and im good to go!
I got a cold heat soldering
whatever works
Hey man, whatever works. I'd rather be making those removeable connections that you are than soldering. That would definitely solve some of my problems.
I'm still working out which connectors I should use in hobby (haven't bought a crimp tool yet). Yeah, I think your solution is best for this. I do some heavy soldering and surface mount work :-p
Even a cheap Hakko
FritsCode
I am not sure I understand 1
I am not sure I understand 1 & 2, can you be more specific?
Perhaps, can you tell me which part of the instruction that you are uncertain about?
- And I'll get back to you tomorrow, thanks.
reposted on the tutorial
1. What output did you use for the playback of your Recording Board?
2. Same but what output for the record button?
3. For the Recording board, does it matter which V&G I connect to on the Picaxe?
4. For the spare L293D for the GM10s, you used four GM10s, all with one L293D, which GM10 did you use for which port on the 2nd L293D
5. And finally, which output/V&G did you use for the spare L293D
reposted on the tutorial page for all to see :)
capacitor
Your motor controller needs a capacitor. I used two IIRC. About 10uF should do it, but I'd rather go in the hundreds range to be safe.
Otherwise, it is rather straightforward. Have a look at the datasheet, as I forget how the chip is wired now. Learning about H bridges is essential. I built an h bridge that would take ... up to around 600 volts (I've tested to 200) and switch over 3 amps at 200kHz.
Thats some heavy-duty stuff man. Definitely worth learning about.
Are you positive a capaciter
with my stick controller I
with my stick controller I found it helpful to wire up the chip on my breadboard first. One thing you should check is to make sure you connect all the grounds together, and make sure the ground from the L293 is connected to the one from your MCU. I still dont know why that is needed, somebody tried to explain it to me but I didnt really understand. However it makes all the difference. Also I dunno how essential this is, but I used a 47k pullup resistor on the enable pins, basically I connected them together thus:
enable1/2 -> enable3/4 -> 47k -> 5vcc
that was the setup that worked for me pretty much...
:-)
No I get what connections go